1: Walk out of the village with the ancient church on your left and the Sexton Arms on the right. Walk to the T junction and turn left towards Carmel. Turn around and enjoy a view of the Carmarthen Fans, the rugged Picws Du and Fan Foel are a dramatic backdrop for the whole walk.
2. Just past Swn y Cwn follow the road round a sharp left and take in the breathtaking views of our own Fans, including the distinctive remains of an ancient hill fort – Fan Camp Llansadwrn that probably dates back to 800 BC. We’ll be scaling this later.
3. Now you come to a five way junction, you want to take the track marked with a footpath sign, follow the track down through a beautiful bit of ancient woodland, full of bluebells in spring, you cross the River Marlais and follow the track round to the right, through the gates and up the hill. Now you come into the woodland proper, home to pied flycatcher, spotted flycatcher, woodpeckers (green, lesser and greater), badger and otter. The track winds up the hill offering views of the hills around. You will pass through a couple of gates, leave them as you find them.
4. At the top of the track it looks like you carry on up through into some cleared forestry but instead you cut off to the left, up through a bit of an overgrown path, the footpath sign is attached to an ancient hawthorn, follow a switch back back on yourself up to a field gate above what appears to be an old quarry. Follow the indistinct path up through the field up, here the views really open out and you get a spectacular view of the whole valley including the ancient Garn Goch. Continue up the hill through a field gate until a deep track cuts across in front of you.
5. The deep track is the old Drover’s road across to Talley, turn left and now you have to climb over a rickety gate, be warned it’s held up with string and is a bit wobbly. Follow the ancient way across the side of the hill now. You will cut through two fields on a pretty distinct path, follow the hedgeline to a stile in the hedge and follow the hedgeline, now drop down through the fields in front of Troed-y-Rhiw-Gader, cut across the field to a stile and then follow the track down through the well managed gardens.
6. A few hundred yards along at a cross roads on the track a go through the gate straight ahead. Walk up through the woods and then out on to the fields of Plas-Newydd, the footpath can be a bit hard to follow on the couple of fields here so follow the map closely. Walk through the farm yard and then out on to the track down to Five Ways.
7. Take the third exit at Five Ways, heading obliquely right up the hill, then quickly go through a pedestrian gate and follow the track up the hill. You can walk off the track and pick up the distinct footpath along the spectacular ridge. Here you get unforgettable views all along the valley. An amazing vantage point.
8. Come off the ridge now and head down to a stile in the corner of a field, you can now walk up the back of the old hill fort and enjoy further spectacular views of the valley. Be aware there can be frisky horses and cows in these fields. Enjoy the view at the trig point and then cut down the face of the hill keeping the forestry to the left, cut through two fields until you arrive at a stile that takes you down to road just above the little settlement of Pwll y Fan.
9. Climb down onto the lane and turn left along this pretty wooded road, full of bird song with lovely views across the valley, all very bucolic! Follow the lane until you come to a junction, continue left and then turn down the track to Llwynbwch, enjoy the views along this track, you are very likely to spot deer lurking in the fields. Head towards the pretty house and barn but just before turn left down a footpath into a lovely area of wet woodland. Follow the path down and on into the meadows of Llwynbwch where you will find butterfly orchids and Devil’s bit scabious. Walk down the little cwm and cross over the river on a footbridge. Note the amazing rock formation in the river here.
10. Carry on down through these lovely meadows and cross another stream. Exit this field onto a very “improved” field. The path goes straight up the hill, be aware there are sometimes bulls in this field. At the top climb over the stile to rejoin the road, turn right and head back to the village.